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Innkeeper

Explore the essential role of inns in New France: a gathering place for travellers, merchants, and coureurs des bois. Discover the history of taverns, wine, rum, and the typical meals of the colonial era.

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L’aubergiste | The Innkeeper 

"Tavern sign, late 17th century" (Canadian Museum of History)

An aubergiste, or innkeeper, was someone who owned a furnished house, inn, or tavern where travellers and passers-by could eat and lodge in exchange for payment.

An auberge was similar to a cabaret and a hotel, but there were key differences. In New France, an inn was a simple establishment where patrons could drink, eat, and stay overnight. A cabaret, on the other hand, specialized in serving alcohol, typically in small quantities. A hotel was a more comfortable, furnished lodging where food and drinks were also available. However, the distinctions between these establishments remained unclear until the 18th century. It was only in 1726 that regulations required proprietors to clearly indicate whether their business was a hotel, cabaret, or inn.

"Neptune Inn looking to the River, Quebec, 1830," watercolour by James Pattison Cockburn (Library and Archives Canada)

Regardless of the establishment, customers could primarily purchase wine or brandy (including rum, tafia, calvados, and cognac), as well as beer and cider. However, there were restrictions: alcohol sales were prohibited after certain hours in the evening and during religious services, and some cities banned the sale of specific drinks to Indigenous people. Coffee and tea were less common at the time due to their high cost.

The history of inns in New France began in the mid-17th century, when Jacques Boisdon was granted the right to operate an inn and patisserie. His name, Boisdon, amusingly resembles bois donc, which can be roughly translated as "Drink then!" or "Have a drink!"—a fitting name for an innkeeper!

 

Jacques Boisdon, Quebec City's First Innkeeper (1648)

A commemorative plaque has been installed at 20-22 Côte de la Fabrique in Quebec City. Its inscription, translated, reads as follows:

To bring comfort to the courageous colonists and promote good relations, on 19 September 1648, the Council of New France granted Jacques Boisdon permission to operate the first inn in Quebec City. This privilege was granted on the condition that he close his establishment on Sundays as well as during religious festivals and services.

Legend has it that the beadle, tasked by the church with maintaining good order, scrupulously searched each room, passing his cane under the beds to chase away anyone occupying the premises during mass.

Within these walls, witness to lively encounters, echoed the laughter and confidences of settlers, coureurs des bois, and soldiers. Here, for a moment, one could forget hostile lands, misery, and epidemics. A single motto prevailed: fraternize, feast, and warm both heart and soul to forget the rigours of winter and the hardships of survival.

Jacques Boisdon commemorative plaque, photo by Jean Gagnon (CC BY-SA 3.0)

In New France, the intendant was responsible for granting the necessary permissions to open an inn or cabaret. Permission was granted only to individuals of recognized honesty who presented a "certificate of good conduct" drafted and signed by their parish priest. The permit was valid for one year only.

 

Ordinance published in the Quebec Gazette on July 14, 1766 (Bibliothèque et Archives nationales du Québec)

 

The innkeeper was required to provide his guests with a furnished bed, firewood for heating, a candle, and meals. He was also responsible for maintaining order in his inn, ensuring that scandal, blasphemy, drunkenness, and gambling were avoided.

 

Ordinance published in the Quebec Gazette on January 25, 1781 (Bibliothèque et Archives nationales du Québec)

 

Inns, taverns, and cabarets were at the heart of social and economic life, bringing together fur traders, travellers, and others seeking to connect or conduct business. People gathered to exchange news, discuss trade, or simply unwind. Inns often played a crucial role in spreading local and regional news, as travellers brought updates from other areas.

"Winter Travelling in Lower Canada," watercolour by Philip John Bainbrigge, circa 1838-1841 (Library and Archives Canada)

The Old Occupation of Innkeeper in New France

An 18th-century innkeeper (source: "The Ale-House Door", digital image of a c. 1790 painting by Henry Singleton, Wikimedia Commons, the free media repository, https://commons.wikimedia.org).

The inn was required to have “a lower room, a courtyard, or a garden”—that is, a space large enough to accommodate benches and tables for customers. This room was often located on the ground floor and, in many cases, served as the kitchen itself. Under the French regime, the average inn had six rooms.

The innkeeper’s family, particularly his wife, played an active role in running the establishment. If the innkeeper died, it was not uncommon for his widow to take over and become an innkeeper herself. She was also responsible for managing the business in her husband’s absence. In Québec and Louisbourg, 10 to 15% of innkeepers were women. The husband might even have an additional trade—such as carpenter, merchant, or cooper—while his wife oversaw the daily operations of the inn.

What Did People Eat in the Inns of New France?

The cuisine in the inns of New France was simple, relying on local or easily preserved foods. Dishes varied according to seasonal availability and supply.

  • Bread and cereals: Bread, often made from wheat or rye flour, was a staple food. In some regions, it might be accompanied by oatmeal or maize porridge.

  • Meat: Inns generally served salted or smoked meat (pork, beef, game) because of the need to preserve food over long periods.

  • Fish: In areas near the St Lawrence, dried or salted fish such as cod was a common option. Eel was also available.

  • Vegetables and soups: Soups made from seasonal vegetables (cabbage, carrots, peas) were an affordable way to feed customers.

The popularity of an inn depended on the quality of its hospitality and service. A generous innkeeper, known for plentiful portions or personalized attention, often earned an excellent reputation and attracted a loyal clientele. Conversely, a neglected establishment could quickly be shunned by travellers.

"Auberge Pinard, Lower Canada," watercolour by William Henry Edward Napier, circa 1860-1870 (Library and Archives Canada)

" Quebec from Prescott Gate," 1860 watercolour by Thomas Mower Martin ((Library and Archives Canada)

Women who had this occupation: Anne Lamarque (“la Folleville”), Agnès Maufay, Françoise Jacquine Nadreau (“la Saint-Michel”), Marie Robitaille

Men who had this occupation: Pierre Aguerre Cadet, Louis Algrain, Pierre Ally, Pierre André dit Lafontaine, Jacques Aubuchon, Pierre Babin dit Lacroix, François Baillargeon, André Baudin dit Sansrémission, Jacques Bausang, Pierre Beaudry, Raphaël Beauvais, Louis Bellefeuille, Urbain Bellorget, Philippe Benoît, François Bergeron dit Lajeunesse, Jean Bernard dit Beausoleil, Jean-Baptiste Bernard dit Jolicoeur, Joseph Béland, François Bergnac dit Lafleur, Pierre Berthelot, Jacques Bezeau, Jean-Baptiste Bizet, Nicolas Blain, Nicolas Boissy, Joseph Bonnet, Guillaume Boucher, Joseph Bouret, François Brébion dit Sanscartier, Jacques Brisard, William Brown, Jean Bureau, Pierre Bu(i)sson dit Subtil, Duncan Campbell, Jean Cachelièvre, Étienne Campion dit Labonté, Alexander Cairns, Maurice Cardin, Léonard Casnin dit Desgranges, Mathieu Castagnet, Thomas Chapman, Gabriel Chartier, Charles Chauveau, Jacques Cheval dit Saint-Jacques, Louis Clermont, Antoine Clopin, Claude Collet, Pierre Côté, Louis Coursolles, Pierre Cousin, Jean Crétot dit Lespérance, Michel Cureux dit Saint-Germain, Jean Pierre d'Aubigny, Anselme Damphousse, Louis Damphousse, Jean Daniau dit Laprise, Louis Enouil dit Lanoix, Charles David, François Delard, Jean Deliasse, Julien Delière dit Bonvouloir, Jean Denis, Pierre Depoix dit Parisien, François Delard, Joseph De(s)barras, François Desboeufs, Jean Dessein dit St-Pierre, Joseph Dessaint dit St-Pierre, Pierre Drapeau, Jean Dubuc, Nicolas Duchesne, Joseph Dubois, Claude Dudevoir, Luc Dufresne, Simon Dufresne, Joseph Étienne dit Durivage, Benjamin Fagnant, Étienne Ferrière, Thomas Fichet, Robert Foucher dit Saint-Aubin, Joseph Fournier, John Franks, Pierre Gagné, Jean Ga(s)tin dit Saint-Jean, Louis Gatte dit Bellefleur, Jean-Baptiste Gaudreault, Jean Gaufreteau dit L'Épée, Joseph Gauthier dit Saint-Germain, François Georget dit Tranquille, Joachim Girard, Louis Gobert, John Gordon, Charles Gouin, André Goupille, Pierre Guénet, Charles Guérard, Simon Guillory, André Guy, Édouard Houle, Jean-Baptiste Huberdeau dit Lafrance, Joseph Huot, François Janis, Jacques Joignet dit Lafrance, Louis Judon, Louis Juselin dit Condé, Léonard Jusseaume, Louis Justin dit Condé, Jean Laberge, Jean-Baptiste Lacoudray, Jean LaBranche dit Laflamme, François Maurice Lafantaisie, Séraphin L'Huissier, Jean LaFerre, Denis Lafontaine, Pierre Lamothe, Étienne Land(e)ron, Charles Langelier, François Laperche, Jacques Larcher, Jean Laroche, Jean-Baptiste Larcher, René Leboeuf, Jean-Baptiste Leclerc, Julien Leclerc, Antoine Lecomte, Jean-Baptiste Lecocq dit Saint-Onge, Edmond Lefebvre, François Lefebvre, Jean Lefebvre, Pierre Lefebvre, François Lemieux, François Lemoine dit Bourguignon, Jacques Lepage dit Roy, Louis Leroux dit Lachaussée, Simon Lescot, Michel-Eustache Letellier, Antoine Letellier dit Lespérance, Jean Levasseur, Pierre Lourdin dit Galand, Séraphin Lussier, Pierre Maillou, Jean Mailloux, Joseph Malouin, Jean Marchand, Pierre Marcheteau dit Desnoyers, Joseph-Étienne Martel, Joseph Martineau, Jean Mathieu dit Laramée, Daniel McCart(h)y, Daniel McDonald, Duncan Mckenzie, Alexandre Meneu, Joseph Méthot, Gilles Monier, Jean Moran, Marin Moreau dit Laporte, Pierre Nadon dit Letourneau, Isaac Nafrechou, Jean Noël, Jacques Nolin, Laurent Normandin dit Sauvage, Théodore Panneton, Jean-Baptiste Paré, René Patry, Alexis Peloquin, Jean Petit dit Lamarche, Pierre Petit(ot) dit Desmarais, François Picard dit Laroche, Jacques-Charles Pinguet Montigny, Jean Charles Pol(a)ingre, Louis Prat, Miles Prentice, Louis Prévost dit Dix-Sept, Charles Rancourt, Pierre Rebel, John Reid, Jean-Baptiste Renaud, Antoine Ritchot, Guillaume Robidoux, Jean Robin, Jean Robitaille, Jean Robin, Pierre Robin, David Ross, Michel Rouillard, Jean-Baptiste Roy dit Desjardins, Pierce Ryan, Joseph-Alexandre Sabatté, Jacques Sachet, Jacques Samson, Jean Samson, Jean Sargnat dit Lafond, William Sedgwick, Jean Simon, Pierre Simon, Jean Simonet, John Simpson, Pierre Souvigny, Jean-Baptiste Tétrau, Jean Tourangeau, Charles Trépanier, Antoine Vallée, John Vanderheyden, Antoine Varambouville, Nicolas Vernière, Antoine Vidal, Robert Voyer, James Woods

 
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